Hong Kong: Its resilience and courage, a story in pictures by Katrina Hall

Katrina Hall doesn’t like being photographed.

Resilience is the cornerstone of nation-building, a trait on which many cities, historically, have survived, thrived and overcome insurmountable odds. Currently, very few cities are exhibiting resilience as Hong Kong is. After six long, painful months of protests against the controversial Extradition Law Amendment Bill (ELAB), a palpable tension coupled with an uneasy calm has enveloped the region. In the face of severe adversity, Hongkongers have fought the draconian Bill through relentless protests and by lawfully participating in the city elections that saw pro-democracy candidates win 17 of the city’s 18 districts; humbling Beijing backed Hong Kong’s first female Chief Executive, Carrie Lam, a vocal proponent of the Bill.   

The protests against the Bill, which would have given China the power to extradite criminal suspects from Hong Kong under certain circumstances, started in June. Hongkongers feared the Bill would use China’s notoriously opaque judiciary system to suppress anti-China dissidents violently. They also viewed the bill as a symbol of China’s growing interference in the region. 

Hundreds of protesters, including students, pro-democracy supporters, activists, and journalists, among others, took to the streets. Though the Bill was withdrawn in September, protesters kept up the pressure demanding lesser Chinese influence in Hong Kong, more transparent bureaucratic system, and an inquiry into police brutality that occurred during the protests. 

Nathan Road saw some of the most violent clashes with police. Seen here, pro-democracy graffiti scrawled across a road barrier with advertising above stating, ‘what does your revolution look like?’ A poignant question many Hongkongers are asking themselves.

In November as the city geared up for the polls, there was a lull in the protests. In that uneasy hiatus, citizens – still on tenterhooks – held on to any sliver of normalcy, gingerly resorting to a life they knew before the unrests took over; shops and schools reopening, friends meeting for a drink or meal, and grand weddings taking place.   

Serial adventurer and photographer Katrina Hall visited Hong Kong in November in the hopes of photographing the protests; instead, she saw a calmer, wiser, and a united side of the city. “When I arrived in Hong Kong, it was eerily calm, with some remnants of the unrest like graffiti and posters, existing alongside everyday life, with the anticipation of the upcoming crucial elections. I thought why not capture these varied emotions through my photographs,” says Katrina.

In a photo essay for TAL, the 40-year-old shares glimpses of a city that though marred by months-long unrest, chaos and confusion, still managed to retain its beauty, strength, never-say-die spirit, and an enduring sense of resilience. The following pictures and words are by Katrina who speaks of her experience in Hong Kong.

District election night. Pro-democracy posters adorn public walls.

As a photographer, I was interested in documenting the pro-democracy movement in Hong Kong. I feel Australians, for the most part, take our democracy and freedoms for granted. I was extremely impressed and fascinated with the overall practical organisation of protests, some of which had 800,000 people taking to the streets.

MTR Central. Normally a busy interconnecting train station sits empty.

I arrived on the evening of November 20, expecting disruptions to public transport and roads; however, I experienced none. The airport had strategies in place to stop anyone entering it without a permit to travel. The Cross Harbour Tunnel which links the city to Hong Kong Island was closed due to vandalism while I was there. It has since re-opened. While the Cross Harbour Tunnel was closed the only way to move between Hong Kong and Hong Kong Island was by ferry or train (MTR), which were regular and reliable.

Chatham Road, Kowloon

Businesses that were too severely affected by vandalism were either closed or had limited services. Many branches of the Bank of China had extensive damage but were still operating minus a few cosmetic details. Some MTR stations were closed; however, this was very limited and buses replaced the train services. Overall, unless one hadn’t seen the protests on the news, they wouldn’t have known Hong Kong was experiencing unrest. 

An older woman collects cardboard to sell outside an MTR station that remains closed due to vandalism.

Hongkongers are incredibly polite and courteous. With beaming smiles, small business owners welcomed me into their stores. Market vendors were keen to show their best wares, and footpath etiquette is always adhered to. Some business owners did comment on how the protests weren’t good for their business but wouldn’t elaborate any further. There is a level of paranoia and fear associated with speaking out against mainland China with many residents choosing to voice their dissent anonymously at organised protests while wearing masks.

Delivery truck on Des Voeux Road, Central. The stores and marketeers in this district sell predominately dried goods such as various seafood products (fish, shark fin, turtle, sea cucumber, octopus, sea dragon), poultry (chicken, duck, quail) and mushrooms.

Restaurant workers kill time in Soho, Hong Kong. Soho is a popular area with tourists and expats, known for its trendy cafes and boutique stores.

During my time in Hong Kong, I got the sense that it was just a city getting on with business. Residents re-laid brick footpaths previously ripped up by protesters so people could go about their day without sand getting into their shoes. Similarly, council workers collected rubbish and laid concrete swiftly. Pro-democracy graffiti was washed away or painted over, leaving large watermarks scattered around the city.

Life goes on: a wedding in progress.

Attempts to wash away pro-democracy graffiti in an underground walkway.

Now is an excellent time to visit Hong Kong, flights and accommodations are cheap, the tourist hot spots are empty, and the weather is pleasant. Australian citizens don’t require a visa to visit Hong Kong and you can get a direct flight from most Australian capital cities.

A stall holder cuts up Jackfruit to sell.

It’s important to mention that those participating in protests are not targeting tourists. If you do find yourself caught up in a situation of unrest, listen to and comply with any police orders. All police and emergency workers speak English and have your safety in mind. You can also monitor news and talk with your accommodation concierge regarding any planned protest locations.

Dried fish store on Des Voeux Road, Central.

The MTR has a wonderful user-friendly website and free app you can download which is always up to date with information regarding public transport disruptions. Every train station has many employees standing around, eager and ready to help you with any query you may have.

Despite landslide victory in the recently concluded city elections, protesters are still keeping up the pressure on the Lam Government to meet their demands. Read more here.

Follow Katrina’s amazing work on Instagram.

Disclaimer: If you wish to travel from Australia to Hong Kong, read about the latest developments here. If you are travelling from other countries, please read up on the latest news and keep yourself updated.